Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Chief Delphi - Wave Robotics 2826 Drive Teaser

Reply

Today 10:17 AM

EricLeifermann

With that low of a ground clearance I take it you're not going over the barrier this year?



Today 10:18 AM

EricH

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricLeifermann View Post

With that low of a ground clearance I take it you're not going over the barrier this year?

I think they are. That's a Delrin angle on the near end, or I'm greatly mistaken.


Today 10:22 AM

jwfoss

The sheetmetal parts are looking great this year guys. Looking forward to seeing the completed robot. I'm interested to see exactly how you are powering the wheels as it appears to be dead axles (3/8" Grade 8 Bolts) but I don't see any pulleys or sprockets.

Looks like about an 1" of ground clearance. And I believe those slides on the front edge of the chassis (im guessing teflon, Delrin, or HDPE) allow them to go over the barrier, FRC2168 is doing something similar this year.



Today 10:22 AM

Peter Matteson

What size are the wheels? I don't really have a good perspective to tell if they are 4" or 6".



Today 10:23 AM

SuperNerd256

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricH View Post

I think they are. That's a Delrin angle on the near end, or I'm greatly mistaken.

Excuse my curiosity, but what's a Delrin Angle? I'm assuming it's the slanted piece to go over the bump, but then again, you never know. Well, you probably know, but I don't.

Thanks!


Today 10:25 AM

EricH

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperNerd256 View Post
Excuse my curiosity, but what's a Delrin Angle? I'm assuming it's the slanted piece to go over the bump, but then again, you never know. Well, you probably know, but I don't.

Thanks!

The angled part of the frame appears to be covered by Delrin, which is a rather slick type of plastic. The other option that I can think of, HDPE, is also somewhat slick, but Delrin is slicker. In block form, Delrin has been used as a chain tensioner in the past--stick the block in so the chain is slightly too tight and let it find its own tension by digging into the block.


Today 10:28 AM

SuperNerd256

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricH View Post

The angled part of the frame appears to be covered by Delrin, which is a rather slick type of plastic. The other option that I can think of, HDPE, is also somewhat slick, but Delrin is slicker. In block form, Delrin has been used as a chain tensioner in the past--stick the block in so the chain is slightly too tight and let it find its own tension by digging into the block.

Thanks! I appreciate it!


Today 10:28 AM

Akash Rastogi

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperNerd256 View Post
Excuse my curiosity, but what's a Delrin Angle? I'm assuming it's the slanted piece to go over the bump, but then again, you never know. Well, you probably know, but I don't.

Thanks!

Delrin is a material developed by DuPont and is widely used by teams. That piece could also be HDPE or UHMW.


Today 10:34 AM

thefro526

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwfoss View Post

I'm interested to see exactly how you are powering the wheels as it appears to be dead axles (3/8" Grade 8 Bolts) but I don't see any pulleys or sprockets.

If you zoom into the picture, it looks as if the wheels are riding on hex shafts, if so, I'd imagine that the ends of the shafts have been drilled and tapped to allow the use of bolts as retainers.


Today 02:00 PM

AlecMataloni

That sheet metal work is absolutely gorgeous. Looking great so far! How high will your bumpers be?



Today 02:07 PM

Peter Matteson

Quote:

Originally Posted by Akash Rastogi View Post

Delrin is a material developed by DuPont and is widely used by teams. That piece could also be HDPE or UHMW.

FYI
Delrin is the Dupont trade name for Acetal.


Today 02:45 PM

waialua359

That robot is definitely going over the bump.



Today 03:56 PM

mdiradoorian

I only have one question what is the angle of the thing in the front?



Today 06:16 PM

mr.roboto2826

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwfoss View Post
The sheetmetal parts are looking great this year guys. Looking forward to seeing the completed robot. I'm interested to see exactly how you are powering the wheels as it appears to be dead axles (3/8" Grade 8 Bolts) but I don't see any pulleys or sprockets.

Looks like about an 1" of ground clearance. And I believe those slides on the front edge of the chassis (im guessing teflon, Delrin, or HDPE) allow them to go over the barrier, FRC2168 is doing something similar this year.

We are powering the wheels Via belt and pulley, similar to a west coast in some respects. It runs inside of the 2 C channels that make up one side of our drivetrain. The wheels are our custom 4".


Reply

Heather Drive: DIY Sheet Metal Magnet Board

When we were putting the finishing touches on the playroom (after the alphabet wall), one of the things we decided to add was a magnet board at Nora's height. I was inspired by one made out of sheet metal that I saw on Pinterest.

Even after Googling, I could not find one that was made with any kind of existing frame, though! Most of the ones I saw required cutting trim pieces to size and gluing them onto the metal. Easy enough if you have experience cutting trim pieces on angles like that AND have a miter saw--neither of which we do. Also, a lot of the posts I was seeing talked about having to get the sheet metal from specialty suppliers.

But then I got a tip from a friend that the sheet metal was available at Home Depot. And when I went to check it out for myself, I discovered that it came in 24" x 36" size (for $20)--which is perfect, since that's a common frame size. Next, we went on the hunt for a good poster frame. Really cheap ones can be had for like $10, but I wanted the frame to be thicker than those. We ended up finding a good one at Walmart of all places, but there was one catch--it was brown!

Once we had it home, we removed the plexiglass from the frame and I spray painted it white--first with primer, then two coats of semi-gloss white spray paint. Perfect!

Yet there was still another small challenge to overcome. When we put the sheet metal in the frame, then put the backing back on and secured it with the tabs, we held the frame up to the wall and pushed on the metal part to see what would happen when we screwed it into the wall from the front. The metal pushed back against the wall, pulling away from the frame, leaving a big gap between the metal and frame.

Bummer.

We needed something to push the metal forward from the wall. The solution? A few pieces of foam core board. We cut a few pieces to size, fit them into the frame, put the backing of the frame back on, and sure enough--it worked out wonderfully.

Because the sheet metal and frame is pretty heavy, and it would be at Nora's level, we didn't want to hang our new magnet board from the hooks on the back of the frame. Instead, we decided to bolt it into the wall with a few screws, using drywall anchors. We estimated where we wanted the screws to be placed on the board, then made a little paper template to mark the place for the hole in each of the corners. Then, we used a metal drill bit to drill a hole through the sheet metal. We held the board up on the wall, made sure it was level, and then marked the holes with a pencil. Drilled, hammered in the anchors, and then hung the board up with the screws.

And the thing is certainly not going anywhere anytime soon. It's definitely secure.

Nora loves it. The magnet board is a big win, and I love how it is something that can grow with her. Right now, she just likes moving the magnets around, taking them all off, putting them back on, etc. but as she gets older, she'll be able to start putting letter sounds and words together.
Oh! We got our letters (Melissa & Doug) at Michaels with a 40% off coupon. I really like that they are wooden, and the entire back of each letter is magnetic--there aren't any small magnet parts that can fall off. Eventually, I want to pick up some other types of magnets to give Nora some variety, but for now, the letters are good.

Cute, right? And despite the number of steps explained above, it's really quite an easy project. When we're cleaning up the playroom every night, I can't just put the stray letters back on the board. I always have to use them to spell as many completely random words as possible. Fun for the whole family, I guess. :)

Getting Treatment of Carbon Fiber Bicycle Parts | O. T. Junction

However, unlike steel and also other metals, carbon fiber bicycle parts don’t bend or deform when damaged— they could suddenly break or fail and might cause serious injury or quite possibly death to its rider. Carbon is actually a synthetic composite material consisting of fibers that have been soaked in epoxy resin who were then compressed, heated and cured. It is essentially a super strong fabric that needs to be maintained and cared for quite differently in comparison to steel, aluminum and titanium. Truthfulness treat your carbon supplies properly, there is really virtually no reason for concern and enjoy riding it a long time. Here are some suggestions about maintaining and caring for your carbon fiber bicycle parts.

Thoroughly read and understand your owner’s manual. All vital information, like torque settings, special tools or tactics, warranties, contact information, about your specific gear is there. This also ensures that the parts you are organizing are compatible amongst each other. Make sure that there are actually no rough spots, dirt or metal shards that could cut or harm the carbon when the carbon fiber bicycle parts are now being assembled and tightened. Over torquing causes a lot of cracks in carbon fiber content bicycle parts. To avoid this problem, always use a torque wrench and the company’s torque chart when focusing on your bike.

Recreation area it safely. You could either lay it down in the safe place or hovering against a wall, so that it doesn’t fall with its side or slam inside anything.

If you ever before crash your bike, have them checked out immediately. Most shops are skilled to inspect carbon fiber content bicycle parts for damage which are probably not visible to most most people. Do not ride your bike until you’re positive of its safety. Even though you have never crashed it, always inspect for every deep scratches, gouges, cracks or loose fibers. When cleaning your carbon bicycle, pay attention to any snags that the rag makes since it could be a sign of harm. Creaking, cracking or popping sounds may be a sign that there is a problem. You should also stop and check your bike carefully when there is a change in ones bike’s ride quality and also handling or if the idea isn’t shifting or braking correctly.

If you live near the ocean, clean and rinse the salt from the carbon fiber bicycle parts thoroughly to avoid corrosion of the sheet metal parts. You could use hot soapy water but never directly aim the pool at bearings since it could actually wash the grease out. After drying add a few bike polish or bottle of spray wax for extra safeguard.

If you experience chain suck with your mountain bike, stop pedaling immediately and try not to use the gears that will be causing it. It could saw in the frames and damage the idea. Clean, adjust or replace that faulty carbon fiber bicycle parts or bring your bike for a mechanic. If you managed pedal and mar your frame, they should also check it out and make sure it’s okay.

Looking for more information and facts about it , check out my website right now to learn more information here carbon bicycle

Stuff You Need To Know When It Comes To Metal Sheets | Arte Acaro

Most of us have this leaning to overlook the modest starting point or scope of some of the most elaborate things close to us. The consummate detail and precision could conduce many to believe that something so sophisticated could occur from anything that is common and tractable to catch on.

Sheet metal is a fine apotheosis, and when defined, is one of the rudimentary forms implemented in metalworking. It is made up of metal that are both flush and fine, making it available for a encompassing number of purposes. a lot of the objects that are utilized in people’s daily lives are created employing it.

Anything from huge parts of buildings to certain containers are products of working pieces. The metal sheets that are considered thick by sheet metal standards are called plates, while those considered to be thin are termed as leaves (Leaf). Each sheet is available in either flat or coiled shape.

One of the most simple manners of exercising the metal is through welding the parts together. A form of welding sheets collectively is through tig welding. It might be of interest to most to learn how to tig weld sheet metal, which is the short form for Tungsten Inert Gas welding.

Tig welding utilises tungsten alloys and is an arc welding methodology. More often than not, the welding equipment afore comes with the needed tungsten alloys.

In order to make the most out of tig welding procedures, at all times make sure to have around three pieces of tungsten alloy electrodes that are trenchant from one another. Welding the metal through tig procedure must always have pure tungsten available, which is forever a needed thing of quality welding. Thoriated and zirconiated tungsten are also just to have in hand, one good for AC welding, while the other one is not.

The end product of any work is always the result of a conflux among fine materials, sound procedure, and focus on the part of the one doing the work. And it is the same with working with sheet metal. A lot of folks are palled by attempting to learn how to weld.

And it is restraining, but just as the same with all skills, it can be picked up and with lots of drill you can turn out to be skillful at it.

Matthiew Drake Kurgen is a professional writer who writes about metal sheet and other similar topics.